Showing posts with label knit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knit. Show all posts

Sunday, March 17, 2024

Interviews with Knitwear Designers by Leanne Dyck

What is it like to be a knitwear designer? What are the challenges? What are the rewards? How did they begin their career? Who taught them to knit?


photo by ldyck


From 2010 to 2012, for this blog, I interviewed a community of knitwear designers--for this blog. These interviews offer a unique insight into the career of knitwear design. 


Interviews with Knitwear Designers


My advise to knitters is to enjoy the process. You should allow yourself to experience the pleasure of all that yarn running through your fingers, how you feel about your accomplishments, learning new things, and seeing what transpires as you manipulate your yarn and needles. In the end, if you had to knit the same ball of yarn over and over, it could still be a pleasure (well, for a while). We get too focused on the price of the materials we are using and how long it takes and we forget how much we get out of it. Not only do we create things, we entertain ourselves, sooth ourselves, and it helps us get through things we’d just rather not (kid’s sports, waiting rooms, family visits, you name it!)

JillWolcott

Knitwear Designer, Author

Jill Wolcott Knits


Who taught you to knit?


I was taught to knit by my mother when I was five years old. I remember carrying my knitting around the neighbourhood that summer while I was working on my first project—a baby pink scarf. I don’t honestly remember if I ever finished it but I do remember that several of the rows were a dirty grey because I must have been knitting with grubby hands. I also remember counting my stitches at the end of every row and then running home to have my mum fix my dropped stitches.

Holli Yeoh

Knitwear Designer, Author


Where is your favourite place to knit?


Two places: Sitting on the sofa in our basement, the dog snuggled between me and my hubby, watching something good on TV, with a cup of tea at hand. My second favourite place to knit is the streetcar: I have a long commute to one of my regular teaching gigs, and I enjoy very much getting a window seat, listening to music on my headphones, knitting away and enjoying the view as the city goes by. The first is comfier, but the second location has better light!

Kate Atherley

Knitwear Designer, Author


When did you become a knitwear designer?


I’m not sure, I think I always have been. I’ve worked professionally in this business for two years (this interview was conducted in 2012) but I am just now getting to the point where I feel okay to call myself a “Knitwear Designer”. I honestly think people throw the term ‘designer’ around way too much. Designers are those who work tirelessly for their art. It’s like a home baker calling themselves a Chef. There is a big difference!


How did you become a knitwear designer?


WORK!! Lots of work! I average about 100 hours a week. I wake at seven and work until bedtime. That's the only way to make it in this business. You have to be willing to put in the time.


Rohn Strong

Knitwear Designer, Author

Crafting a Handmade Home


How did you become a knitwear designer?


Like many people, I started altering patterns, then I morphed into designing my own patterns just for myself, then decided to start developing patterns for public consumption.

Stephanie Tallent

Knitwear Designer, Author

SunsetCat Designs


I've always created. I majored in crafts (jewellery, ceramics and textiles) in art college and received my degree in Fine Arts. I was working as a jeweller, both teaching and designing, and was feeling uninspired. We wanted to have a baby and I felt that the toxins I was exposed to at the jewellery studio were just too risky. Knitting was my passion though and it was consuming all of my free time. I decided that it was time to apply my design skills to knitting.

It didn't occur to me that I had no instruction or experience in knitwear design. My art college education gave me a good grounding in design in a general sense and I applied that and my common sense to figuring out how to design knitting patterns. There were few resources at the time although now there are many books on designing your own knits.

Holli Yeoh

Knitwear Designer, Author


Tell me about your first pattern. Where was it first published?


About ten years ago (2010), I was shopping at the Boulder Handweavers’ Guild annual sale and I saw a marvelous felted bag that I wanted to buy. It was $75, and quite outside of my budget at the time. I was with my mom at the sale and we decided we would try to figure out how to make the bag ourselves, so we went to the local yarn shop, bought some wool yarn and a book with some information on felting, and I went home and started to play. I ended up with one of my favorite bags of all time—I still use it today—and it also became my published knitting design.

My first published design was in Family Circle Easy Knitting. I always loved that magazine and was sad to see it go away!

Donna Druchunas

Knitwear Designer, Author

Sheep to Shawl


What is the most rewarding aspect about being a knitwear designer? What’s the most challenging?


Creating something that people love to knit is a fabulous feeling! I think self doubt is the most challenging. Every time a design goes out, it’s a part of me, and I’m hoping that I wasn’t fooling myself into thinking it looks good!

Rosemary Hill

Knitwear Designer, Author

Designs by Romi


What is the most rewarding aspect of being a knitwear designer? 


It's exciting to see knitters' reactions to my designs to see if they understand what I'm trying to communicate with them. Being able to spend my days immersed in the knitting—both the physical knitting and the planning and making it work part—are immensely rewarding.


Challenging?


Marketing and paperwork are definitely challenging for me. I would love to be able to just create and have someone else swoop in and spread the word for me and do my books.

Holli Yeoh

Knitwear Designer, Author




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Monday, May 13, 2013

free knitting pattern: "Kayesha" woman's summer top by Leanne Dyck


'Kayesha' a figure-flattering tunic. 
Designed to be knit by a beginner knitter.



This pattern was first published in A Needle Pulling Thread:  the magazine promoting Canadian needle arts (spring, 2008)
Carla A. Canonico (editor-in-chief)






Kayesha
Finished tunic measurements:
Bust:  XS – 30/ S – 34/ M – 38/ L – 42/ 1X – 46/ 2X – 50 inches
76.2 / 86.36 / 96.52 / 106.68 / 116.84 / 127 centimeters
Length:  XS – 27.5/ S, M, L – 28/1x, 2x – 28.5 inches
69.85 / 71.12 / 72.39 centimeters

Knitting needles:  4.00 mm/US 6 OR size to obtain tension

Yarn:  Ornaghi Filati Italy bamboo worsted weight (approximately XS, S – 685 (625)/M, L – 822 (750) /1X, 2X – 959 (875) yards (metres)

Gauge:  5 stitches x 7 rows = one inch (2.54 centimeters) worked over Stockinette stitch

Stockinette stitch
Row 1:  knit – to end of row.
Row 2:  purl – to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

1 x 1 rib stitch (odd number of stitches)
Row 1:  knit one, purl one – continue to end of row.
Row 2:  purl one, knit one – continue to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

1 x 1 rib stitch (even number of stitches)
Row 1: knit one, purl one – continue to end of row.
Repeat row for pattern.

Back:
Cast on [XS – 74/ S – 84/ M – 94] L – 104[1X– 114/ 2X – 124] stitches
Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 4 inches. (10.16 centimeters)
Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; Stockinette stitch for [XS – 34/ S - 44/ M – 54] L – 64 [1X –74/ 2X – 84] stitches. Work for 4 inches. (10.16 centimeters)
Waist:
Work in 4 x 4 rib stitch for 7 inches. (17.78 centimeters)
This row:  1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; decrease 10 stitches knit evenly across Stockinette stitch section; 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches. Stitches remaining:  [XS – 64/ S – 74/ M –84] L – 94 [1X – 104/ 2X – 114] stitches.
Next row:  1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; purl [XS – 24/ S – 34/ M – 44] L – 54 [1X – 64/ 2X – 74]; 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches
Upper body:
Work in established pattern for 6 inches. (15.24 centimeters)
Armhole shaping:
Next two rows:  decrease 10 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows while maintaining established pattern. Stitches remaining:  [XS – 44/ S – 54/ M – 64] L – 74 [1X – 84/ 2X– 94]
Work for [XS – 4 (10.16)/ S, M – 4.5 (11.43)] L, 1X, 2X -5 inches. (12.7 centimeters)
Neck:
Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 1 inch. (2.54 centimeters)

Straps worked from two balls of yarn
From 1st ball of yarn work [XS – 5/ S – 10/M – 15] L -20 [1X –25/ 2X –30] stitches in 1 x 1 rib stitch
From 2nd ball of yarn decrease 34 stitches; work [XS – 5/ S – 10/M – 15] L -20 [1X –25/ 2X –30] stitches in 1 x 1 rib stitch
Work for 1 inch (2.54 centimeters)
Cast off.


Front:
Cast on [XS – 74/ S – 84/ M – 94] L – 104[1X – 114/ 2X – 124] stitches
Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 4 inches. (10.16 centimeters)
Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; Stockinette stitch for [XS – 34/ S - 44/ M – 54] L – 64 [1X –74/ 2X – 84] stitches. Work for 4 inches. (10.16 centimeters)
Waist:
Work in 4 x 4 rib stitch for 7 inches. (17.78 centimeters)
This row:  1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; decrease 10 stitches knit evenly across Stockinette stitch section; 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches. Stitches remaining:  [XS – 64/ S – 74/ M –84] L – 94 [1X – 104/ 2X – 114] stitches.
Next row:  1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; purl [XS – 24/ S – 34/ M – 44] L – 54 [1X – 64/ 2X – 74]; 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches
Upper body:
Work in established pattern for 6 inches. (15.24 centimeters)
Armhole shaping:
Next two rows:  decrease 10 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows while maintaining established pattern. Stitches remaining:  [XS – 44/ S – 54/ M – 64] L – 74 [1x – 84/ 2x – 94]
Work for [XS – 2/ S, M – 2.5] L, 1X, 2X – 3 inches. (7.62 centimeters)
Neck:
Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 1 inch (2.54 centimeters)

Straps worked from two balls of yarn
From 1st ball of yarn work [XS – 5/ S – 10/M – 15] L -20 [1x –25/ 2x –30] stitches in 1 x 1 rib stitch
From 2nd ball of yarn decrease 34 stitches; work [XS – 5/ S – 10/M – 15] L -20 [1X –25/ 2X –30] stitches in 1 x 1 rib stitch
Work for 3 inch (7.62 centimeters)
Cast off.

Tips
To eliminate confusion, before working this design take a few minutes to carefully read the entire pattern. Then highlight all information that pertains to your size.

In the working of this design, cotton may be substitute for bamboo.

Would you like to shorten or lengthen the tunic?  This is relatively easy to accomplish. It is best to make these alterations between the bottom trim and waist. Currently, the pattern requires you to:  Work in 1 x 1 rib stitch for 20 stitches; Stockinette stitch for [XS – 34/ S - 44/ M – 54] L – 64 [XL –74/ 2x – 84] stitches. Work for 4 inches.
To lengthen, instead of working this area for 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) work it for 5 (12.7 centimeters) or more inches. To shorten, instead of working this area for 4 inches work it for 3 (7.62 centimeters) or less inches. Ensure that the length of the back and front match.

Finishing
Sew strap seams. Sew side seams to waist. Weave in ends.
***
This is the last hand knitting pattern I'll be sharing for a while. For the entire summer season--Monday, June 3rd to Monday, August 29th--I'm planning to share...a fun summer project. : )

Next post (Thursday):  Writer's royalties and advance

Monday, October 17, 2011

handknitting pattern: winter hat designed by Leanne Dyck

My favourite toque
Fits most adults

Fast, easy, and fun--a perfect first knitting project

Yarn: worsted weight
Weight (in ounces and grams) of the skein/ball:  3.5 oz/ 100 grams
Length (in yards and meters) of the skein/ball:  230 yards/ 210 metres

Needle size:  1 pair of 4.50 mm (7 US, 7 UK)

Tension:  20 stitches x 8 rows = 4 inches over Stockinette stitch

Stitch pattern

4 x 4 rib stitch (over even number of stitches)
Row 1:  knit 4, purl 4--to end of row
Repeat row for pattern

1 x 1 rib stitch (over even number of stitches)
Row 1:  knit 1, purl 1--to end of row
Repeat row for pattern

Cast on 80 stitches
Work in 4 x 4 rib stitch for 11 inches (27. 5 cm)
This row:  knit two together to end of row (40 stitches remain)
Work in 1 x 1 rib for 1 inch (2 cm)
Pull yarn through remaining stitches, sew the side seam and weave in ends. 


***
Next post:  I will share the story of how I developed this design.