Monday, January 16, 2012
AUTUMN CHIC FROM PARIS
by Anne Talbot
Knitted wear in the new autumn and winter collections may be divided into two groups, the classical, serviceable type of knitted garment destined for sports and country wear, and the more elaborately designed models suitable for afternoon and evening wear with more complicated cut and detail. In the second category the evening models in knitting and crochet are principally of the informal type, but there are a number of beautifully designed, lace-stitch evening gowns being shown in new novelty threads and yarns that are suitable for even quite formal occasions. I have in mind a very lovely white evening dress of spun-glass thread, flexible, gleaming, and translucent, and light to wear. It is crocheted in a lacy pineappple-stitch. The surplice bodice is decollete in a V-shaped line front and back, the skirt fits snugly and flat over the hips with a crisp, circular flare below the knees. The flare is faced with white horse-hair lace to give a clear-cut, stiff line.
Another designer, Paule Valence, shows a plate blue silk yarn, through which runs a silver lame thread, worked in small popcorn-stitch to make a short-fitted evening jacket and long, slim skirt. The bodice is of silver lame, draped cowl-fashion in front, and cut in a deep curving decollete at the back; the skirt is worn over a silver lame foundation which gleams through the knitted meshes.
As Wanda Kofler's there is an evening model of finest black wool in Irish crochet lace with large, bold flowers and leaves in white. With a crimson sash, tied at one side, this is a most striking evening model for country-house wear. Mlle. Kofler also shows a long, fitted evening coat in Irish lace wool crochet, worked with various colours in a leaf design. One of her most ravishing evening gowns is knitted balck silk model with a bolero jacket knitted in black and white silk, and studded all over with brilliants.
I was surprised that cowls were in fashion in the 30s. I thought they were a 1980s invention. I guess there's nothing new under the sun.
Popcorn stitch? Wow, I haven't heard of this stitch for years. When I was a teenager, my grandmother made me a white popcorn stitch toque (wool hat).
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