Monday, January 23, 2012

knitting #fashion in 1937 (2 of 2)

(We continue reading from Stitchcraft:  a vintage needlecraft magazine published from the 1930s to 1980s.)

For daytime models the line is slim and youthful. Collars are, as a rule, either of the Peter Pan persuasion, the mannish shirt-collar type, or the new, low-choker style. Some afternoon models affect a high, very tightly draped line as softer, but in this case the knitted fabric must be thin. Shoulders are very slightly square, just enough to give a good tailored effect, but with no hint of an artificial breadth. Skirts are short and narrow, with open over-laps low at sides, front or back, or with a "kick-pleat" for width.

When there are fulness at the top it is more moderate than last season, and usually takes the form of two or three short, shallow folds, or a couple of neatly tailored darts.

Plaided, checked, and some striped effects are shown as well as flower patterns. These designs are either knitted into the fabric or worked in relief on the surface. Many knitted surfaces are rough, such as the tweed yarns, harsh-haired wools, yarns with "nubbing" of all sizes, others with long "bumps" that loop up on the surface when worked, boucle threads of all types and weights. At Robert Piguet's there is a smart tweed suit trimmed with matching tweed yarn, even to the colours in the "nubbing", knitted in stocking-stitch to form the back of the jacket between shoulder-yoke and waist-line. Similar work faces the lapels and the patch-pockets. The play to shoulder and arm movements afforded by the knitted back makes this an admirable suit for active sports wear.

Many jackets are shorter than last season, and have interesting treatments of lapels, neck-lines, and pockets. Belts, too, are important, either smart saddler-made leather ones or matching knitted ones. Some suit jackets are merely nipped in at the waist-line, others are gored, and with these no belts are worn. Longer coats of fingertip and three-quarter length are shown, either belted and fitted or loose-backed, of the top-coat or box-jacket varieties.

Jumper, blouse, and dress bodices may be either plain and flat up to the neck-line, or softened by crocheted frills, jabots, or pleated bibs. Many smart blouses are knitted of fine wool in tailored shirt-waist style with fancy plastron fronts shaped like a man's shirt-front. These may be done in tucked effects or lacy stripes contrasting with a plain stitch for the rest of the blouse.

Buttons are used in great quantity, and are equally smart down the back or front of a dress. The high-necked line for bodices, blouses, and jumpers is often buttoned down a short vent at the back of the neck. Others fasten inconspicuously along the shoulder, while others have a centre-front, buttoned band as on a shirt-waist.

Cocktail ensembles, suitable for restaurant dining as well, are shown in most knitwear houses. These are tailored in style and have floor-length, slim skirts, and short, fitted jackets or boleros. The bodice top is frequently quite decollete, and the sleeves, if any, are short. The jacket and bolero sleeves accompanying, however, are as a rule long and close-fitting, with, perhaps, a mere hint of fulness at the top.

The new winter colours are beautiful. All the summer garden shades are to be seen, and then, to be seasonable, the autumn-leaf browns and soft, placid, browns and tans. Black is always smart in Paris, and is shown nearly as much in the knitwear houses as at the couturiers.
Next post:  Where will I be on March 2? Here are a few hints:  writing, The Writers' Union of Canada, workshop. Ah, you guessed it. : )
Also I received a voicemail request the use of one of my posts. Okay, if you're like me--a little dumbfounded my this request--you'll be interested to visit Speaking from the Heart The post is titled "Write or Wrong" and will go live tomorrow. (Much thanks Laurie)This is a supportive, thought-provoking, inspiring blog. So, please click the link.


holessence said...

Leanne - The post where your work is featured goes live one week from today -- January 31. And I'm very excited about it!

Author Leanne Dyck said...

Sorry, Laurie. My bad. I'll wait until I see the whites of their eyes--as they say. : )
You could probably see how excited I am. : )
Don't you just love these. : )

Dress Space said...

Nice one.............thanks for sharing withi us....

Author Leanne Dyck said...

You're most welcome. Thank you for your comment.